Questions we get asked

No. Alongside pruning, felling, crown work and stump grinding we cut hedges, clear gardens, turf, lay driveways and patios, and put up fencing.

Yes. No obligation. Send a few photos and the address, or we can visit, and we will give you a price.

The address, what you want doing, and a few photos if you have them. That is enough to start. A site visit is better for bigger trees, new driveways or awkward access.

The price follows the work: size, access, how many of the crew we need, equipment (chipper, grinder, and so on) and whether waste leaves with us. We give a clear figure before anyone starts — not a vague day rate on the doorstep.

It depends on the diary and the size of the job. Call 07780 186 061 and we will give you a straight answer.

Not always. If we can get to the garden without going through the house, you can leave access and we will lock up as agreed. For quotes, a visit is easier if you are there to walk the plot.

Yes. Public liability insurance on every job, and the work itself is guaranteed.

Yes. If the finish is not right, we come back and put it right.

Yes. Arisings from trees, hedges and garden clearance leave with us unless you want logs left for the fire. That is included in the quote unless we say otherwise.

Yes. The rest of the plot is left as we found it — paths, lawns and beds protected, waste taken, site swept before we go.

Light rain is fine for most tree, hedge and clearance work. We postpone if high winds make climbing or felling unsafe, or if frost and standing water would ruin a new driveway, patio or turf. We will call you if the day has to move.

Sometimes. A Tree Preservation Order or a Conservation Area can restrict pruning and felling. Tell us the address and we will check before we start. If permission or six weeks’ notice is needed, we will say so and can help with the application. Dead wood is often exempt, but we still check.

Most trees are happiest pruned in late autumn and winter, when they are dormant. Hazardous wood can come out at any time. Nesting birds are protected, so dense evergreens are often better outside March to August unless we have checked the canopy first.

All wild birds, their nests and eggs are protected while they are nesting. We look before we cut. If there is an active nest we stop that part of the job until the young have fledged. Dense hedges and conifers are the usual place we find them.

You can usually have branches cut back to the boundary on your side. We will not go onto their land without their say-so. Cuttings still belong to the tree owner, so they should be offered back. A TPO or Conservation Area still applies even on overhanging wood.

Yes. We grind below the surface so you can turf, plant or pave. The chip can stay as mulch or leave with us. Deeper grinding costs more if you are building over the spot. Full root-ball excavation is a different job and we will say if you actually need it.

They can — rubbing branches, falling dead wood, roots lifting paths, and on clay soils, roots drawing water that then affects foundations. Most garden trees never do. If you are worried, we will look at the tree and tell you what is sensible. Cracks in the house itself are a job for a structural engineer.

Most garden hedges twice a year — late spring and late summer. Leylandii often needs three cuts. Yew, holly and beech can take one good cut. We will tell you what that hedge actually wants after we see it.

Garden hedges can be cut most of the year if there are no nesting birds in them. One annual cut is often best from September. Fast growers may need an earlier trim so they do not block paths. Farm hedgerows next to agricultural land have separate cutting dates — we will flag that if it applies.

You can usually cut what crosses the boundary, back to the line — not on their side, and not so hard that the hedge dies. There is no blanket two-metre height law, but evergreen hedges over 2 m that block light can be a council matter under high-hedge rules. We work on the growth you are entitled to have cut.

A small overgrown plot can be a day. A large garden with trees, bramble and waste to take away can run to several. Access for the chipper and how much has to leave the site are what stretch it. Photos and the address let us give you a realistic window.

Real turf if you want a living lawn and will water it in. Artificial if you want green without mowing, or a patch that gets no light. We lay both. New turf needs watering for the first couple of weeks; we will say so on the day.

Often no if the surface is permeable — gravel, permeable block paving, resin-bound — or if water soaks away on your own land. A non-permeable front drive over 5 m² that sheds water onto the road usually needs planning. Conservation areas and listed buildings have extra rules. We will tell you before we quote the finish.

A ground-level patio in the back garden is usually fine. Raised decking over 300 mm, big changes to front-garden drainage, listed buildings and some conservation areas are the usual exceptions. We will flag it if your plot looks like one of those.

Typically 1 m next to a road or at the front, and 2 m at the side and rear. Higher than that usually needs permission. Listed buildings and conservation areas can be tighter. We work to the height you are allowed.

A standard run of fencing is often one to three days. A patio is commonly a few days to a week. A new driveway depends on excavation, base and the finish — often around a week, longer if drainage or a big area is involved. Weather and access matter. You get a programme with the quote.

We prefer side or rear access for barrows, chippers and materials. If the only way is through the house we will protect floors and say so in the quote. Cars on a driveway we are rebuilding need to be off the plot for the job.